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Message Forums Car Stereo Message Forums > Amplifiers > KAC-8152D Protect Mode, or Fried?
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Zoomy
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 KAC-8152D Protect Mode, or Fried?

I purchased the KAC-8152D yesterday and hooked it up and it was working great. I have 2 10' DVC subs hooked up in series/parallel for a 4OHM load which was working fine. After reading that the amp can do 550RMS @ 2OHM's I took out my subs and rewired them in parallel, 1 positive on 1 DVC sub to the positive on the other DVC sub then to the output on the box, same thing with the negatives. Now im not extrememly sure but that should have produced 2 OHMs. Anyway, turned on the car, listened to the subs for about 15 seconds before the amp shut off and now it will not go back on. I checked all the fuses, none of them are blown, the amp just wont turn on. I unplugged the sub connection, reseated all the ground, battery and control plugs into the amp but still nothing. Did I fry the amp just by doing that? Isn't it smart enough to go into protect mode then try to turn back on. My previous KAC-6202 would shut off when I tried hooking up my subs in parallel but this new amp is supposed to be good for 2 OHMS. Any ideas as to whats going on? I have a 2006 Cobalt and its hooked to the battery in the back and the battery is still working just fine as far as voltage goes.

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New Post 02-12-2006 03:35 PM
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lionel2
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 what ohm?

what ohm are your 2 10's?? 2 dual 4 ohm will give you a 1 or 4 ohm load...2 2ohm subs will give you a 2 or 8 ohm load i believe..thanks

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New Post 02-12-2006 06:57 PM
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Zoomy
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They are both 4 ohm DVC subs. Wired in parallel but not each voice coil. Only 1 VC from each sub was used, positive on sub to postive on other sub to box. negative on sub to negative on other sub to box. So each sub has a positive/negative terminal being unused. But the main issue is that the amp still does not turn on even with all the speaker/sub outputs unplugged :(

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New Post 02-12-2006 07:27 PM
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Zoomy
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Yeah and again the fuse on the amp is fine. so does kenwood make brand new amps now adays that fry before the fuse even breaks? I don't know why its still not coming on. I was looking for a reset button if perhaps it was still in self protect mode but there was none that i saw.

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New Post 02-12-2006 07:33 PM
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Zoomy
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HAHAHA I found the problem! the fuse i checked lastnight WAS actually blown. When i just checked it again i saw that it was broken but very hard to tell, replaced the fuse and amp is back workin :) and it wasnt the fuse on the amp, it was the "30" fuse that is near the battery. With the Kenwood KAC-8152D, and 2 subs each 4 ohm DVC in a ported box with 1 output terminal. How can I wire the subs for 2 ohms, and which terminals on the amplifier should I put the negative/positive connectors to? its a 4 channel amp but does 550RMS @ 2ohms, right now its back to running 300RSM @ 4ohms. Does it matter which terminals on the amp i plug them into, because its not a bridgeable amp, or if the subs are running out at 2 ohms will the amp give it max power(550RMS).

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New Post 02-12-2006 09:18 PM
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KickerKitty
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 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 02-12-2006 by Zoomy
HAHAHA I found the problem! the fuse i checked lastnight WAS actually blown. When i just checked it again i saw that it was broken but very hard to tell, replaced the fuse and amp is back workin :) and it wasnt the fuse on the amp, it was the "30" fuse that is near the battery. With the Kenwood KAC-8152D, and 2 subs each 4 ohm DVC in a ported box with 1 output terminal. How can I wire the subs for 2 ohms, and which terminals on the amplifier should I put the negative/positive connectors to? its a 4 channel amp but does 550RMS @ 2ohms, right now its back to running 300RSM @ 4ohms. Does it matter which terminals on the amp i plug them into, because its not a bridgeable amp, or if the subs are running out at 2 ohms will the amp give it max power(550RMS).

From the Authority (lol), themselves:

What this means is that you cannot run your subs at 2 ohms, they can't be wired that way. Good luck!

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New Post 02-13-2006 04:34 AM
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Zoomy
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Thanks. What i have right now is 2 visonik 10'' running in series/parallel to the amp in a ported box. they are each rated at 300RSM so since the amp is currently running at 4ohms because of the wireing of the subs its putting out 300rms total. the bass is decent inside the car, but when i get out i cant feel any vibrations at all. now im wondering, first of all does visonik suck and they have subs that do not perform as well as punch, MTX ect... and/or should i look for another pair of 10'' that run at 2 ohms so i can get 550RSM out of my amp to em. what im really looking for is deep bass and im not to sure as to if its the subs being visonik are shtty, or if maybe they do need more power. please give me all your ideas. also the ported box is so large that i couldn't get it in the trunk through the trunk itself, it took me half an hour to push the dam thing in through the backseat so im pretty much stuck with it :( unless there is nothing else i can do but change to 12's or something. but it is a hell of a box, paid $130 for it its called a "Bass Slammer."

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New Post 02-13-2006 05:28 AM
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