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Rforce21h
Member
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Battery
I posted this in another topic, but no one responded, so I have tried it here:
So I have an extra Optima red top starter battery in my garage. Can I hook this up to my sound system for some extra power or do I absolutely have to get a yellow-top deep cycle battery?
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 05-31-2006 01:40 AM |
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Rforce21h
Member
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Thanks for all your help. The only reason i said that was because I already have an extra one lying around the house. I will probably just replace the stock battery with it, and stick to one battery.
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| 06-10-2006 03:36 AM |
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stratusrt01
Member
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RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-10-2006 by RPMSOUNDS
yes it will work but not the best battery to use in car audio. will end up burning out if you have a big system.
That's not entirely true, if you can keep it above 12volts, it will work for a long time, as long as any other battery, deep cell or otherwise. The reason to use deep cell is to run without your car turned on, where your voltage might drop below 12 volts. Deep Cells, like a yellow top can handle being drained and recharge. The problem is that deep cell batteries don't give up amperage easy, they tend to try to conserve power, where a red top will give you more amperage at a time, but if you get it under 12 volts too many time, you will kill it.
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| 06-10-2006 04:43 PM |
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RPMSOUNDS
Member
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RE: RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-10-2006 by stratusrt01
That's not entirely true, if you can keep it above 12volts, it will work for a long time, as long as any other battery, deep cell or otherwise. The reason to use deep cell is to run without your car turned on, where your voltage might drop below 12 volts. Deep Cells, like a yellow top can handle being drained and recharge. The problem is that deep cell batteries don't give up amperage easy, they tend to try to conserve power, where a red top will give you more amperage at a time, but if you get it under 12 volts too many time, you will kill it.
Again!, It is not a battery made for car audio and will burn out after a few months if you have a good draw on it.... that post made my day.... thanks for the good joke!
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| 06-10-2006 07:54 PM |
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stratusrt01
Member
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RE: RE: RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-10-2006 by RPMSOUNDS
Again!, It is not a battery made for car audio and will burn out after a few months if you have a good draw on it.... that post made my day.... thanks for the good joke!
You're the joke...
I've been running a red top for over a year with absolutely no problems, it still reads 13.8 volts everyday and I've run up to 3200 watts rms off of that battery. Read my entire post before you call it a joke, the battery will last forever if you keep the voltage over 12 volts. That's what kills them, voltage drops, not current draw. Deep Cells aren't made for car audio either, they were made for boats, so I guess they'll burn out also, huh. As far as proving my point, just go look at the amperage on a yellow top vs. a red top. I'm done with all you wanna be know-it-alls, I've been doing this for too long to argue about something as stupid as this, since it's easily proven that red tops will put out more amperage, but will die if pulled under 12 volts repeatedly, which was my original point. If you guys would learn to upgrade your electrical systems properly for the system you have, you wouldn't have to worry about running deep cell batteries.
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| 06-10-2006 09:41 PM |
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9oh7
Member
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omg i cant believe you just told him that. he is a very knowledgable, and nice person. lol. well in my opinion "if you keep it above 12 volts it will last forever" is totally wrong, a battery will just die over time. no matter what you are running off of it. so dont insult people when you made a stupid comment. yes it improves battery life if to keep the voltage up on it. but an optima will work fine for audio, not ideal for audio, but it will work.
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| 06-11-2006 01:34 AM |
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RPMSOUNDS
Member
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RE: RE: RE: RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-10-2006 by stratusrt01
You're the joke...
I've been running a red top for over a year with absolutely no problems, it still reads 13.8 volts everyday and I've run up to 3200 watts rms off of that battery. Read my entire post before you call it a joke, the battery will last forever if you keep the voltage over 12 volts. That's what kills them, voltage drops, not current draw. Deep Cells aren't made for car audio either, they were made for boats, so I guess they'll burn out also, huh. As far as proving my point, just go look at the amperage on a yellow top vs. a red top. I'm done with all you wanna be know-it-alls, I've been doing this for too long to argue about something as stupid as this, since it's easily proven that red tops will put out more amperage, but will die if pulled under 12 volts repeatedly, which was my original point. If you guys would learn to upgrade your electrical systems properly for the system you have, you wouldn't have to worry about running deep cell batteries.
http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/6/web/2214000-2214999/2214403_2.jpg My battery setup last year that had to be upgraded for this year to help get more out of them. Now not only are the batteries ummmm.... like 2400 or so amps each and the fact that I have 10 should and well stepped up to 3 alt under the hood should mean anything but my voltage dosn't drop below 13.9- 14v. Normal music play it holds 14.6 and in nothing is on they hit 14.78. Now with the car off they float almost 13v. Now we are talking about a battery that is made of stereo systems like the Stinger batteries and Xtatic. Last info you should know is all optima batteries have a slow dischare rate and recharge rate. With the design they use in its shape you also are using up room and not getting full amount of power per sq. inch. http://www.sounddomain.com/ride/2214403 is a few pictures of the trucks last 2 systems. The ones with PPI stuff was 2003-2004 then rebuilt it with Digital Design subs and Fusion FCA4000D amps this was from 2004-2005 and well its bigger now then ever waiting for it to come back from body shop had it repainted and some ummm.... window removal.
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| 06-11-2006 12:52 PM |
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stratusrt01
Member
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OK, maybe I flew off a little too quickly, but the fact is that while it's not a "car audio" battery, a red top will work fine. I agree that "forever" was a bad comment, but they will last as long as any conventional or deep cycle battery if they are not pulled to under 12volts on a regular basis. I have 2 Kinetic 2400's that are going into my next build, because I can't guarantee that I can keep the voltage up like I can now with the new setup, and I can only run a 160 amp alternator, so I need them to recharge quickly. As far as knowledge goes, I have been in the "game" since 1988, was a certified professional installer for 4 years, have an associates degree in Applied Science for Consumer Electronic Repair, and I am currently ASE certified for electrical and charging systems, so I can put some knowledge on the table when it comes to vehicle charging systems vs. draw, but I have a different way of looking at things than most people. If you are running a 130 amp alternator, have an amp that draws 120 amps max, there is no reason why a Red Top won't serve you well. My new setup with 2 TREO SSXD 1500's strapped at .7 ohms probably would kill that battery, my front battery, and my alternator, so upgrades are in order. It's all about the level you're at, and not everyone requires a true car audio battery. I apologize for flying off at RPMSOUNDS so quickly, but I still stand behind every technical thing I've posted, whether you agree with me or not.
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| 06-11-2006 01:04 PM |
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RPMSOUNDS
Member
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RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-11-2006 by stratusrt01
OK, maybe I flew off a little too quickly, but the fact is that while it's not a "car audio" battery, a red top will work fine. I agree that "forever" was a bad comment, but they will last as long as any conventional or deep cycle battery if they are not pulled to under 12volts on a regular basis. I have 2 Kinetic 2400's that are going into my next build, because I can't guarantee that I can keep the voltage up like I can now with the new setup, and I can only run a 160 amp alternator, so I need them to recharge quickly. As far as knowledge goes, I have been in the "game" since 1988, was a certified professional installer for 4 years, have an associates degree in Applied Science for Consumer Electronic Repair, and I am currently ASE certified for electrical and charging systems, so I can put some knowledge on the table when it comes to vehicle charging systems vs. draw, but I have a different way of looking at things than most people. If you are running a 130 amp alternator, have an amp that draws 120 amps max, there is no reason why a Red Top won't serve you well. My new setup with 2 TREO SSXD 1500's strapped at .7 ohms probably would kill that battery, my front battery, and my alternator, so upgrades are in order. It's all about the level you're at, and not everyone requires a true car audio battery. I apologize for flying off at RPMSOUNDS so quickly, but I still stand behind every technical thing I've posted, whether you agree with me or not.
130 amp alt will need to use some power on the car and then you are pulling more then you are putting in again since you have a 120amp draw. When this happens is the time you look for your batteries to hold the extra power. This will work for so long untill the batteries are sucked of all their power... this is life when building big system and 120amp draw is more looked at a as good draw for a good voice desing in the car. I did say it will work the Optima and it will just not flawless and thats what said it will work but isn't a car audio batter. Optima has a smaller holding charge and lower floating charge and its recharge rate is crap just like the discharge rate. I would like to know that if you think Optimas are good why not use like 4 or 8 of them since Kinetik bateries are so much more money. Bringing me to my final point you can never have to much power in your system but you do sometimes run into the problem of not having 475 for a kinetik monster. so you take the cheaper way out and hope it works untill you get the money to step up. Just remeber must you change to kinetik batter under the hood, and then add more in the back. will give you better results. No relay between batteris just use 0g wire and line the pos in fron to the pos on the battery in the rear and the same with the ground. If you have any problem with them or need more info about batteries and how much diffrence you can get just by the way you wire them up call Kinetik up and ask for Rich. Pat and Rich are the owners Pat being more on the money and Rick is the true tec know it all behind the design and making the battery.
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| 06-11-2006 01:18 PM |
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CompToyZ
Member
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LOL the red top will work fine unless your looking at a system that will need a nuclear reactor. Seriously though, I've seen SPL systems with red tops running for some time. I personally run yellow tops (which are DEEP CYCLE and not deep cell, I think you meant spirel cell maybe?) If you want to spend a ton of money on batteries that's your perogative, but I have NEVER had trouble with my dry cells. I use a bigger alternator, 0 gauge wire and caps where they should be and things work like they should. Just remember if the batteries you run in series or parralell are not matched and you do not use anything between them then you will have issues.
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| 06-22-2006 01:37 PM |
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CompToyZ
Member
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RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 06-23-2006 by Fuzion
Holy crap, people are so fast to bag on each other here. LOL Why is that?
Everyone had wrench rash?
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| 06-23-2006 06:27 PM |
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