Box Rattles...any suggestions?

Hey...I'm running an MTX 5500 in a vented enclosure. I can hear a rattling sound on certain songs which have low bass notes. It's made out of MDF and does not have any other material covering the inside or outside... Please suggest...can I get glasswool on the inside? Will a carpet on the outside help? Thanks...

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 RE: Box Rattles...any suggestions?

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Originally posted on 01-08-2007 by zoso02
Hey...I'm running an MTX 5500 in a vented enclosure. I can hear a rattling sound on certain songs which have low bass notes. It's made out of MDF and does not have any other material covering the inside or outside... Please suggest...can I get glasswool on the inside? Will a carpet on the outside help? Thanks...

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The box is tight...no gaps...screws are in place...sub fits well. It's possible that the joints are not proper...not sure though

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 RE:

quote:

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Originally posted on 01-09-2007 by zoso02
The box is tight...no gaps...screws are in place...sub fits well. It's possible that the joints are not proper...not sure though

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I did...was from the box...took it to a friend who was able to fix it. Thanks for your help...

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 RE:

quote:

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Originally posted on 01-10-2007 by zoso02
I did...was from the box...took it to a friend who was able to fix it. Thanks for your help...

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 RE:

quote:

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Originally posted on 01-10-2007 by zoso02
I did...was from the box...took it to a friend who was able to fix it. Thanks for your help...

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 Boxing clever

Use a good woodglue. Don't apply too much. Tighten your screws again, with a bigger driver. Make sure big panels are braced. A tip, sprinkle some sand on the panel to see if it dances around, good sign of movement. If you're able, I've often walked straight up to a box and give it a hug. Move your hands around the various corners and give it some squeeze. If its too late to brace, you could double skin. But if it rattles and needs bracing, added brace will mess with your box volume. You might need to start again and take the volume of bracing into account. If your cutting timber make you're cuts straight. Sometimes you need to cut by hand, take your time be patient. Use scrap wood and master your cutting technique,buy a square don't rely on a hand saw to be true 90 degrees mark face, face edge etc. Table saws are always a good option. Cheers Mike

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 Liquid Nails and Fiberglass Resin

Good suggestions Mike. I like to use Liquid Nails instead of wood glue because you can get it thick to help make sure your edges are sealed air tight and it doesn't warp the wood if you use too much like wood glue can tend to do. I also will take some fiberglass resin and brush it over the inside seams after the liquid nails dries. This will bond with the wood and provide additional strength and an air tight seal. If you are using screws as well, make sure to pre-drill and countersink your screw holes and then fill in the holes with wood filler so that your screws don't back out from vibration. If you need to you can always run a bead of silicone or caulk around the speaker if you are not getting an air tight seal around the edges. Running a circle of foam or rubber weather stripping around the outside perimeter of the speaker hole before installing the speaker can help with this issue as well. And as they mentioned above, don't ignore the importance of bracing! If your box is flexing or moving at all under the pressure of your driver, then it is absorbing sound pressure. This creates distortion and kills your spl. It also makes your speaker work harder because it is designed to use that air pressure to help move the cone back and forth. The leaks and rattles lower the air pressure so your sub draws more power to do the same job. This, my friend, is how you will ultimately blow your subwoofer.

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