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Message Forums Car Stereo Message Forums > > Question about ports
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dodoandduck
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 Question about ports

Maybe a dumb question, but are there any disadvantages or advantages to port exit location. Is a front firing port better or worse than a rear firing port. My thougt was rear firing into the trunk so I don't have port noise in the cab.

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New Post 08-11-2009 02:29 PM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

if your port is done correctly you will never hear port noise.  if the seats fold down sub and port should fire to the front of the car if they do not fold down face them both to the rear.

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New Post 08-12-2009 09:08 PM
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Kenny9955
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 As long your port isn't smaller than 2 inches...

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New Post 08-16-2009 09:48 AM
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mc
Senior Member

 

for SPL then it does matter. what vehicle and subs

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New Post 08-18-2009 06:35 PM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

 

Tips for SPL

VEHICLE MODIFICATIONS:

1. Sound deaden your vehicle prior to building your enclosure as this changes tuning.

2. Upgrade your batteries to the size and quantity allowed based on your SPL organizations rules.

3. Upgrade your alternator.

4. Run as many runs of POWER and GROUND, from the front battery to the back, as your SPL organization allows. This reduces resistance and voltage drop.

5. Ground front battery to sanded strut tower in your engine compartment. Best vehicle ground!

6. Make sure all air leaks are sealed in your vehicle so that it will contain air pressure.

CHOOSING EQUIPMENT:

1. Review the rules of the SPL organization that you plan to participate in and determine what is best for your budget and class selected.

2. Choose subwoofers that will function optimally in the airspace you have available.

3. Choose amplifiers that match the impedance and rms power requirements of your subwoofers.

DESIGNING ENCLOSURE FOR TRUNK CAR

WITH FOLDING SEATS:

1. Measure out for the largest enclosure possible while still leaving room for your batteries and amplifiers.

2. Fire subwoofers forward with slot port in the middle.

3. Seal off all around the enclosure so that there are no voids between the enclosure and the box.

DESIGNING ENCLOSURE FOR HATCBACKS:

1. Two designs are often used. One that has subs firing forward and ports firing back and one where subs fire up and ports fire back.

2. Consider external Aeroports in this application with smaller enclosures.

ENCLOSURE DESIGN PROGRAMS:

1. Bass Box Pro 6 : This is the best program available.

SPL MEASUREMENT SOFTWARE/HARDWARE:

1. Term-Lab : Best SPL meter available.

2. Audio Control SA-3055 and SPL-190 mic: Good meter.

ENCLOSURE TYPES:

1. Larger enclosures are generally more efficient, but the trade off is that they make your subwoofer reach full excursion faster and therefore reduce power handling characteristics of the subwoofers.

2. Smaller enclosures are generally less efficient, but the trade off is that they will maintain power handling characteristics of the subwoofer.

3. Larger enclosures reproduce lower frequencies better.

4. Smaller enclosures tend to be very peaky and are better at higher frequencies in most cases.

5. Sealed enclosures dont reproduce low frequencies very well and tend to be punchy.

6. Ported enclosures reproduce a wide range of frequencies and have much better low frequency response.

7. Bandpass enclosures are difficult to design properly and should not be attempted by those without experience designing and tuning them. You have more control within the tuning band, but no control or power handling above or below the selected tuning frequencies.

SPL ENCLOSURE TIPS/TRICKS:

1. Round all 90 degree angles either by sanding or using BONDO and sanding them round/smooth. Especially back corners in the box.

2. When bracing the walls of your enclosure inside of the box, use threaded rod rather than wood as this reduces turbulence and takes up less airspace.

3. Use ¾inch MDF or thicker on the entire enclosure.

4. Make your baffle double thick so that the front doesnt flex.

5. Make sure to use wood glue on all joints of the enclosure when putting the pieces together.

6. Use liquid nails inside of the enclosure on all joints once the enclosure is glued and screwed together.

7. Once all changes are complete with port tuning, secure the port with plenty of screws, wood glue and liquid nails.

8. Round inside and outside of port ends to reduce turbulence.

9. Once the enclosure is tuned and all changes are complete, coat the entire enclosure with fiberglass resin. It may take 2 coats because MDF is very porous.

HEADUNIT SETTINGS:

1. Bass, Treble and EQ must be flat or OFF.

2. Loudness or Boost must be off.

AMPLIFIER SETTINGS:

1. PHASE at 0.

2. SUBSONIC all the way to the left.

3. LOW PASS all the way to the right.

4. BASS EQ all the way to the left.

5. LEVEL ¾ for SPL, in some applications this will change due to headunit output voltage through RCAs.

SPL HEADUNITS / CD PLAYERS / CD CHANGERS:

1. Look for 4volt pre amp outs or better.

2. Anti-skip is a good feature to have.

3. Pause feature is a MUST.

4. Kenwood and Pioneer are trusted SPL headunits.

5. CD Changers are ALWAYS better because they are even less likely to skip.

6. In an SPL application, it is often best to run 12awg or better POWER and GROUND wire directly from the battery to the headunit. This will ensure that the headunit doesnt get starved of voltage due to 24awg factory wiring and shut off while burping under heavy stress.

LIST OF Sound Investments SUPPORTING COMPANIES:

- Batteries: Kinetik

www.ht-audio.com

2. WinISD : Good program.

$99.00 US www.linearteam.org FREE www.termlab.com $649.00 for software and meter, still require computer. www.audiocontrol.com Around $2000 new for meter and sensor. No computer required. www.kinetikaudio.com

- Batteries & Alternators: Powermaster

www.powermastermotorsports.com

- Wiring & Connectors: Hooker

www.hookeraudio.com

- Sound Deadening: Second Skin

www.secondskinaudio.com

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New Post 08-18-2009 06:41 PM
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dodoandduck
Member

 

Well I'm running three Audiobahn AW1000V 10" off of three Hifonics 1206D mono amps.My box is 4.1 cu ft before displacement, but that's the biggest I could go. The box is a wedge, 36.25w and the slot port I came up with was 25"W x 2"H x 21.25L. The base of the box is 18.125 deep with a curve in it so the port will be 17, then turn up the back for 5.25". At least that's what I came up with. I know it won't be the best SPL setup, but it's mostly for my listenining. Although I would like to take it for a comp every once in a while for fun.

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New Post 08-18-2009 09:31 PM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

i come up with about 33-34 Hz  but you really should go wider if you can,  something like 25 x 3 and 30" deep for a tuning of 34.5 Hz .      as narrow as your port is it will make alot of chuffing.

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New Post 08-18-2009 10:28 PM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

you could also try 16 x 4 x 24 deep to get it at 34Hz  higher tuning is better especially if you want to maybe compete you want the tuning a little higher.

for 38Hz make it 20 deep instead of 24. you will get the best of both worlds that way.

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New Post 08-18-2009 10:32 PM
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mc
Senior Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 08-19-2009 by hornedfrog2000

If you use W7s you dont even need ports!!!! They will just transend the sound in a wave that is so pure it exteands the loudest and purest.



lol that's funny JL is the loudest even in a seald box. ha ha ha

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New Post 08-19-2009 07:15 AM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

he is just a noob nuthugger from caraudio.com  they banned him there.

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New Post 08-19-2009 05:15 PM
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gameguru1360
Senior Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 08-19-2009 by sicaudio

he is just a noob nuthugger from caraudio.com  they banned him there.



yep he's a big JL audio fan.  I think even JL audio wants their stuff back that they sold him! 

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New Post 08-20-2009 01:25 AM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

1-   i never threatened you at all If I remember correctly, you asked me if I wanted to fight.

2- I don't sell pyle or JL junk.

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New Post 08-20-2009 09:56 AM
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audiobahnfan
Member

 

finaly sombody agrees with me jl is junk

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New Post 09-10-2009 10:25 AM
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