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Ziprhead
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STUMPED
When I crank my head unit up to a certain point my system will cut out, the protect light on my amp would kick on so I ran bigger gauge wire and turned my gain down and that let me crank it a bit more but whats getting me is when I really try to crank it and it cuts out my head unit will lose power for about 10 to 15 secs. and then come back on (for example if I have the head unit volume on 35 and it does it I can turn it down to 33 or 34 and it stops) I have a Pioneer super tuner 3 head unit and my amp is a 500 watt with 4 gauge wiring. I'm just wondering if I have some sort of wiring issue or my head unit settings are wrong. Could it be an issue in my wiring? I'm thinking about just pulling it all out and going over everything to make sure no wires are pinched or have a skinned place. Could it be a problem with my rca's or a bare spot in a wire grounding it out or something not sending a good signal when I crank it. All the wiring kit was brand new when I installed it.
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10-17-2010 12:05 PM |
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Ziprhead
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reply about amp
No unfortunately for me its not its a class A/B 2 channel bridged. It is two ohm stable when bridged but my 12 inch sub is only a SVC 4 ohm sub. Could that have anything to do with it? I wouldn't think so but this is the first system I had in about 6-8 years. I thought about just getting me another amp and trying that but have not came across a good deal for my budget and a decent amp yet.
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10-17-2010 11:25 PM |
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Ianarian
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I am of the belief that a 2ch amp can't be stable into 2ohms when bridged.....electronically not feasible...no? If the source is cutting out too, I'd lean toward too low voltage...Do the headlights dim? How many speakers are running off the source?
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10-19-2010 05:19 AM |
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Ziprhead
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stumped reply
No my headlights don't dim (I had that problem with a system a few years back.) But my CD players lights do when the bass hits, kinda of like a neon that goes with the beat. Its a Pioneer DEH-2600 super tuner 3, it doesn't cut off unless I try to crank it , any other time it just blinks, its kinda annoying really. It is about 6 or 7 years old too but seems to work really good with no other issues. Could it be low voltage even though my headlights are not dimming? Other than my amp and single 12 inch sub its only running 2 small tweeters and 2 door speakers off of the front speaker connections and 2 6x9s off of the rear connections I haven't got my new door speakers or my new 6x9s yet so other than the tweeters the door speakers and 6x9s in it are stock.
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10-19-2010 09:48 PM |
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gottint
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RE: stumped reply
quote:
Originally posted on 10-19-2010 by Ziprhead
No my headlights don't dim (I had that problem with a system a few years back.) But my CD players lights do when the bass hits, kinda of like a neon that goes with the beat. Its a Pioneer DEH-2600 super tuner 3, it doesn't cut off unless I try to crank it , any other time it just blinks, its kinda annoying really. It is about 6 or 7 years old too but seems to work really good with no other issues. Could it be low voltage even though my headlights are not dimming? Other than my amp and single 12 inch sub its only running 2 small tweeters and 2 door speakers off of the front speaker connections and 2 6x9s off of the rear connections I haven't got my new door speakers or my new 6x9s yet so other than the tweeters the door speakers and 6x9s in it are stock.
it possible that you need to have you electrical system check to see if you battery or alternator is up to par . see if one or the other may be going and its time to buy new parts .....
just take your radio out and use a digital voltmeter and test the power and grounds on the radio when your cranking up the volume and see if you drop below 12 volts and for how long . do the same thing for your amp connections you can us the meter to check the battery voltage while the car is off. start the car and check at the battery again and see what the alternator is putting out to the battery .
with the car off you should read 12.5 volts or more on the meter . and when the cars running you should read 12.5 volts to 14.4 volts on meter .
email me with results to help you more
caraudioquestion@gmail.com
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10-20-2010 11:53 PM |
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Ianarian
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This problem is a issue that "can" happen as a result of low voltage but I'd like to believe that the signs would be evident in other areas of the vehicles electrical prior to the entire stereo system shutting down.. Hearing about a bridged amp shutting down at high volumes is nothing new.. The source on the other hand, I'd try disconnecting the amp and just play the source and see what happens.. If the amp is 500rms output, then its in Big3 & HO battery territory......keep us posted on the status!
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10-21-2010 11:36 PM |
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Ziprhead
Member

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I checked my batt. and alt. and the batt. was putting out 12.5 volts and the alt. was putting out 14.6 volts so they are good. My amp is not 500rms its 500watts max, its supposed to be putting out about 250-300rms but you know how some amp ratings go when it comes to that. I'm still just stumped.
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10-23-2010 10:49 AM |
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gottint
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RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 10-23-2010 by Ziprhead
I checked my batt. and alt. and the batt. was putting out 12.5 volts and the alt. was putting out 14.6 volts so they are good. My amp is not 500rms its 500watts max, its supposed to be putting out about 250-300rms but you know how some amp ratings go when it comes to that. I'm still just stumped.
could you have possible wired your subs to a ohm load the amp cant handle seen it done on a jl 75 x4 . every time you cranked the volume it would go to protect for a few seconds or volume turned down .it had one bazooka dual sub on 2 channels and the other 2 channels ran factory speakers
they ran there dual voice coil sub wrong to the amp .it was 2 ohm mono he was try to run could not work when he ran it 4 ohm mono it solved the problem
try check you ohms on you sub to your amp . let us know
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10-24-2010 07:39 PM |
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Ianarian
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Sorry man, I wasnt reading your posts closely enough. You say your speakers are stock? Sometimes stock wiring services speakers a different way than normal isolated circuits straight from source to speaker. You need to verify that the stock wiring is not wired in some weird way. Also, the stock speakers typically are not 4ohm. It could be that the load on each channel is causing the source to cut out, being it is not what the source is rated for.(4ohm/channel)
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10-26-2010 02:44 AM |
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Ziprhead
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My 2 door speakers and the rear 6x9s are just the stock speakers, I added the two tweeters in to the left and right door speaker connections behind my head unit. should I unhook the stock speakers and the tweets and see if it still cuts out? I'll pull out my head unit and go over my wiring again, the head unit was put in before I got the car so it is possible that somthing is wired funny because the guy that installed is a complete moron. Everything should be pretty much color matched as far as the wiring goes but like I said I'll go over it again. Other than that I have the amp and 12in. Sub but the only thing wired into the head unit is the remote wire and the RCAs to the RCA outputs.
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10-26-2010 12:01 PM |
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Ianarian
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RE:
quote:
Originally posted on 10-26-2010 by Ziprhead
My 2 door speakers and the rear 6x9s are just the stock speakers, I added the two tweeters in to the left and right door speaker connections behind my head unit. should I unhook the stock speakers and the tweets and see if it still cuts out? I'll pull out my head unit and go over my wiring again, the head unit was put in before I got the car so it is possible that somthing is wired funny because the guy that installed is a complete moron. Everything should be pretty much color matched as far as the wiring goes but like I said I'll go over it again. Other than that I have the amp and 12in. Sub but the only thing wired into the head unit is the remote wire and the RCAs to the RCA outputs.
Ok, so the front and rear RCA outputs are not in use? Make sure the ends are covered and come in contact with no metal. Try using the fader and balance. Fade to front, balance to left-make sure the front left speaker and a tweet play-ONLY. **(If you have a tweet and stock speaker wired in parallel on this channel, impedance is too low. Re-wire in series)** Check all four channels. Turn the volume up each channel you check with the sub playing as well.........."Everything should be pretty much color matched as far as the wiring goes"......... This will only be true if you're talking from source to aftermarket wiring adapter.
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10-26-2010 12:47 PM |
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Ziprhead
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The only thing I installed was the amp and the sub, like I said the head unit and the tweets were already installed with the stock door speakers and stock 6x9s, when I checked the wiring on the head unit the tweets are wired into the wires for the right and left door speakers coming from the head unit......(right tweet pos. to the right front pos. and the right tweet neg. to the right front neg., the left tweet pos. to the left front pos. and the left tweet neg. to the left front neg.) not sure if thats how they should be, if not I can rewire them if I'm told the correct way. I really appreciate eveyones help with trying to get this figured out.
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10-26-2010 05:26 PM |
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Ianarian
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So the RCA's from the deck are on sub output? What channels did you use? Can you fade and balance between channels while playing the sub? If not, disconnect 2 speakers, it will take a load off the deck, see what happens. Check the ground that the deck is using. Make sure it is grounded to metal right there. Not tied into the ground from the harness.
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10-27-2010 01:49 AM |
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Ziprhead
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Yes my HU only has the rca outs for the amp to the sub. I will try unhooking the 2 speakers and see. I believe the HU ground is ran into the harness ground should I disconnect it and Run it to bare metal too?
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10-27-2010 05:01 PM |
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