will this work?

Its for a 10" JL w3 if my calculations are correct the box will be tuned to 33 Hz give or take 1-2 and has 1.35-1.38 Cubic feet Net, JL owners manual recommends 1.25 the port is 3''x5'' and just below 20% of the sub area mounting depth is 5.93'' reason for the design is to fit around the wheel well and maximize trunk space for camping. http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h42/mahalas/box.jpg

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just realized how off my math is more concerned about the box design

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ya i think that you are about one cubic foot larger than you thought... lol i love trying to align enclosures its freaking hard well for me it is... but fun and i have messed up a few boxes with wrong math let me tell you... pretty much ever box i have ever done really....lol anyways sir the design looks like you are on your way well i like the craftiness if it is what i am trying to say.......

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note to self.... no more blazin before doing box calculations, all tho it did give me the idea to replace my crappy type-r 12 and increase trunk space.

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wouldnt call R's crappy just so much better can be had for less and way better for the same...

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lol I really need to watch what I say. I meant the whole set up. the box is too small, almost a cube with a 2 inch diameter port that's tuned to 24Hz and whistles like a tea pot. To put this in my new truck with all the work I'm doing would be an insult.

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hey join the club i suck at box building to but im learning and its fun. you will get it as i hope i someday will...

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I think I'm getting the hand of it, still have a few particular questions that I cant find the answers to.----- I built the type R box right after high school when I new 2 things. Type-r 12 was the cats ass and you weren't cool unless the guy 2 rows over and 3 cars down could hear your base. Long story short I stopped listening to the stereo when I put a turbo on the car and the sub sat in my shop for a few years after I rolled it.

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turbo vs sub man what a quandary!!!

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Almost 2 years of driving with stereo only on during stop and go traffic. The new race car doesn't even have a deck or speakers lol but it also runs 12.47 in the 1/4 mile at its current stage. Goal is for 350+ wheel HP and to brake 10.999, but that's a long ways away as the car is on the back burner and I have little time and motivation for it. By the way its a 92 civic with a 1.6L single over head cam motor at 6.9/1 compression ratio.

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QvQ7Eu0KwTE

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lucky bastard..... you have my dream car, hatch back so easy to have a hellin loud stereo. civic ricegrinder good milage and easy motor upgrades for haulin ass while you smoke mustangs... i have a buddy who builds motors, he is pro at b20 with type r vtec head swaps. i just cant afford it now, but some day ill get a hatch, my 4door civic is ok for now i guess.

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B20 vtecs are over rated. Boost your stock motor for a fraction of the cost and be done with it... for now... my first set up was a 1.5L non vtec with a small 14b turbo from a talon. beat the piss out of it daily driven for 2 years before I crashed it. every thing said and done I was under 2k for the set up. (you could build it cheaper) If your really interested let me know and I'll give you a basic run down. Check out www.realhomemadeturbo.com by far one of the best sites for DIY boost, but fair warning read allot and especially how to make a proper noob post before you start posting.

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the car was my wifes forever ago, we have 170,000 mi on it and the motor sounds like its on its last leg, you still think its worth boostin? id like to but even the transmission feels shady, not to mention the clutch will need work and some strong half shafts man i just cant afford it right now. my plan it to get my wife an suv soon and then when its paid for ill dump some money in a ricer/spl/commuter. my buddy has never had success with turbos so he says to me he is pretty honda savvy. he is a bottle sucker. his thing is b20/vtec head on a bottle, ive seen him do 3 already with good success but the cost is some what higher than 2kdollars when its all said and done, i guess its easy i dont know why he goes that rought. i always thought that you werent tuning unless you had a b20/vtec motor or better as a base line. im really hoping to get lucky and find a clean early 90s hatch with bad motor for cheap but those go like fresh blue berry hot cake on sunday morning at my house.... gone.....

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just my opinion here but any noob can juice a car... turbos are repeatable power with no expense to keep the power... once it is in ur done... all normal maintenance after that...ur friend sounds like he likes the easy way...no offense...but a turboed car requires skill to build...and i would put a 14b turboed / built up 1.5 all day against a juiced 20b...

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