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Message Forums Car Stereo Message Forums > Amplifiers > Amp for sound quality
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vincent714028
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 Amp for sound quality

Hi, I've been reading here and it sounds like the sundown sa-12 is the way to go.  My alt puts out 90 amps in my 2011 Mazda 3.  It's still under warranty so I don't want to modify it too much.  I have the bose system so it sounds good it just needs more bass.  So, 90 amps x 14.4 volts = 1296 x 0.40 = 518.4 watts.  I am willing to add a battery if that will help.  I see the alpine mrx-m100 has a damping factor of > 1000 and uses 1000 or 600 watts rms.  That's good for sq right?  Lot's of people recommend the brz1200.1d which has more power if wired to 1 ohm.  But for sound quality I want to stay away from 1 ohm right?  Only 2 or 4 ohm?  But with that amp I am worried about my electrical system.  900w to 2 ohms is a lot more than 518.  Any thoughts?

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New Post 07-27-2011 10:19 AM
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SINTORMAN
Member

 

with a stock alt you are going to see a lot less than what its rated for. And 90 amps is 2k rpms or more so when you are idling you will see about half the amperage. And you have to take into account you will have voltage drop. You are going to need some electrical upgrades running anything above 600 watts. As for the amp. There is no difference between sq of 1 ohm 2 ohm or 4 ohm on a properly designed amp. A brz1200 will put out clean power.

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New Post 07-27-2011 02:04 PM
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vincent714028
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Damn.  I thought as much.  If I wired the brz1200 for 2 ohms at 900 watts and added a battery do you think I would be ok?  How do I quantify what upgrades would be necessary?

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New Post 07-27-2011 04:34 PM
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N2Audio
Senior Member

 

IMO setting a 600w rms limit on a 90A alt is VERY conservative.
Power requirements for an amp aren't remotely as black and white as it seems.
If you have a decent class D amp that's capable of 600w you can assume efficiency of around 80%. So to produce that 600w the electrical system would have to provide 600/.8 or 750w.
And 750w at 14v would be 53A. But the big HOWEVER...unless you're playing test tones at full volume the amp's AVERAGE power requirement/production will be MUCH less than that -- roughly 1/3. So your real-world current draw would likely be closer to 20A than 53A, and that's still at/near full volume. Assuming you're not going to be blasting it non-stop you're likely looking at 10-15A of current being drawn on average.

Anecdotally, my last set up included 1500w rms worth of amplifier power running on a stock 110A alternator and standard battery. Other than some minor headlight dimming at high volume I had no problems.

As far as amp impedance...
SQ purists will point to two major factors. THD is generally higher for a given amp as it approaches its lowest stable impedance, and Damping Factor decreases as impedance decreases.
However, those that tend to take a more objective approach vs subjective generally agree that while these factors may be true, their actual "audible" contribution to the reduction of sound quality is insignificant at worst, completely undetectable at best.

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New Post 07-27-2011 04:51 PM
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SINTORMAN
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N2 i am assuming you did the big 3. Huge difference. That's what upgrade I was talking about.

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New Post 07-27-2011 05:27 PM
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SINTORMAN
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And some of my songs are worse than test tones lol.

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New Post 07-27-2011 05:31 PM
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larrypeters86
Senior Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by SINTORMAN
with a stock alt you are going to see a lot less than what its rated for. And 90 amps is 2k rpms or more so when you are idling you will see about half the amperage. And you have to take into account you will have voltage drop. You are going to need some electrical upgrades running anything above 600 watts. As for the amp. There is no difference between sq of 1 ohm 2 ohm or 4 ohm on a properly designed amp. A brz1200 will put out clean power.

there is most certainly a difference in sq from 1, 4 and 8 ohms. The issue is whether the rest of your system allows you to hear it. A dampening factor above 100 is about all you'll notice.

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larrypeters86
Senior Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by SINTORMAN
N2 i am assuming you did the big 3. Huge difference. That's what upgrade I was talking about.

Wow.....a little attitude. Good to see ya back N 2.

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New Post 07-27-2011 07:21 PM
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larrypeters86
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Hmmmmm....I am running about 1k with no upgrades at all. Of course I have real amps. Besides hifonics and sq should never be in the same sentance....just my opinion.

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vincent714028
New Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by larrypeters86
Hmmmmm....I am running about 1k with no upgrades at all. Of course I have real amps. Besides hifonics and sq should never be in the same sentance....just my opinion.

What do you recommend for sq?  What was your stock system at 1000 watts?

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larrypeters86
Senior Member

 

You mean electrical? Not sure....04 explorer v6 all stock. I think I'm cheating though. My amps have regulated power supplies.

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larrypeters86
Senior Member

 

You need to consider integrating into the bose system if you're keeping it. Depending on the vehichle it can get expensive. Peripheral should make the adapter. Besides.....I think 1000 watts is severe overkill to match a bose system. Get a good 500 watt amp and be done. Something like an Arc class d and an Audiopulse Epic.

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recover
Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by larrypeters86
You need to consider integrating into the bose system if you're keeping it. Depending on the vehichle it can get expensive. Peripheral should make the adapter. Besides.....I think 1000 watts is severe overkill to match a bose system. Get a good 500 watt amp and be done. Something like an Arc class d and an Audiopulse Epic.

http://www.woofersetc.com/p-6859-fd-6001-arc-audio-1-channel-620-watt-amplifier.aspx

Just bought this puppy the other day to run an IDQv3 12. I bet you this amp would be perfect for you.

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New Post 07-27-2011 09:24 PM
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SINTORMAN
Member

 RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by larrypeters86
You need to consider integrating into the bose system if you're keeping it. Depending on the vehichle it can get expensive. Peripheral should make the adapter. Besides.....I think 1000 watts is severe overkill to match a bose system. Get a good 500 watt amp and be done. Something like an Arc class d and an Audiopulse Epic.

You mean tc sounds?

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New Post 07-27-2011 09:27 PM
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larrypeters86
Senior Member

 RE: RE:

quote:
Originally posted on 07-27-2011 by SINTORMAN
You mean tc sounds?

Audiopulse/TC ....Same thing.

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New Post 07-27-2011 09:39 PM
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