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Message Forums Car Stereo Message Forums > Subwoofers and Speakers > tweeters
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asterno
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 tweeters

I have updated the stock speakers in my f350 to polk audio 5.25s in front and 6X8's in the back. I now question whether I should add tweeters up front as the door speakers are very low. I am powering these with an aftermarket HU. Without adding an amp, can I splice the tweeter into the front channels powering the 5.25s? If so, what does that do to the load the HU sees? I realize this isn't the optimum way to do it, but budget is a consideration. Some here have said adding speakers will not help the problem. I just want a little more high frequency than I am currently getting. Also I found a great deal on a pair of polk mm 1040's. They have a very high sensitivity comparatively. I know there are much better speakers out there, but at much higher prices. I am looking to improve sound quality, not blow out the windows.

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New Post 09-02-2011 12:28 AM
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sicaudio
Senior Member

 

using the deck as ya know is far from optimal... the high frequencies that tweeters play wont affect the ohm load the deck sees and it is more than safe. an inexpensive 40x2 amp or so would do wonders for the sound tho...

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New Post 09-02-2011 12:40 AM
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asterno
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I am new to this. I am trying to keep it cheap and simple. If I added an amp would you try to get an amp to power the tweets, doors, and rears with one set of rca outs, then the use the sub out for sub/amp. I would presume you would need one or more crossovers and likely a higher end HU? Would there be an appreciable gain by adding the tweets splicing off the fronts using the HU or should I ditch that idea altogether? And what tweets would be good bargains using them that way? At this point, I am even getting hung up on finding a box for those mm subs. The mounting diameter is 9 1/16 and the closest box I can find has diameter 9 1/8. Seems like a small difference, but it may be the difference between getting the screws in or not. I found a box that has a max mount depth of 3.5"? Is there a sub that shallow? These are 4 9/16".

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New Post 09-02-2011 12:56 AM
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asterno
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Not to ramble with questions, but who makes a good quality affordable amp for the above, both multichannel and mono. The subs are 4 ohm SVC rated at 350/700. I thought 500 RMS would be a little over the rec, but not too much.

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New Post 09-02-2011 01:07 AM
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sicaudio
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only subs i know of that shallow are the MBQuart RLP series.... for an amp a Lanzar opti MBQ onx hifonics zxi not as familiar with other brands multichannel amps but someone else may pipe in./.. with an amp just on the front doors only I doubt you will still need twetters ;)

for the cost of an in expensive set of tweeters you can get a decent 40-80 watt rms x 2 channel amp... around 60-100 for a decent cheap amp.... much better is available but if ya dont need it or want it no sense spending alot..as for subs not sure what those take power wise that ya want the MBQ need 300 rms..

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New Post 09-02-2011 01:45 AM
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asterno
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They are rated at 350 RMS each. Maybe a better question is what brands in a mono amp are good and reliable and which ones should I stay clear of? At a 350 rating, should I go for that specific number or how much can you safely exceed it? On a website you can get a boss, ssl, hitron, lanzar cheap that will do 400 at 2 ohms. There is an MBQ fx 400 for a little more. I presume there are differences in the quality of build and sound among the brands. What do you look for in an amp that clues you in to those differences?

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New Post 09-02-2011 03:08 AM
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sicaudio
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I am a distributor so i will refrain from a recommendation and let others chime in with their opinion

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New Post 09-02-2011 08:44 AM
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asterno
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Wow, its dawning on me how little I know.

So, if I wire 2 SVC 4 ohm subs (rated at 350 RMS/700 peak each), in parallel, that presents a 2 ohm load to a mono amp and the amp should be rated at how many watts at 2 ohms to match those subs? 350, 500, 700?

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New Post 09-02-2011 04:19 PM
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sicaudio
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700/2 = 350 each sub is 350 .... so 700 is what you need ;)

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New Post 09-02-2011 05:12 PM
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asterno
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Anybody have good recs for a class D mono 700-800W @ 2 ohm amp? I have found 15 brands/models on one webpage.

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New Post 09-02-2011 06:18 PM
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larrypeters86
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what is your budget?

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asterno
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My budget is pretty slim. I suppose my priority would be an amp that has good reliability. I don't have to have high performance, just good consistent power without alot of headaches. Would it be easier to eliminate bad choices rather than name the best one?

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New Post 09-03-2011 12:31 AM
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SINTORMAN
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BRZ1200.1d, AQ1200, SAX1200D The BRZ is the cheapest but still a very solid amp that will give you the power you need and then some. I agree with LP. We need to know your budget to assist you fully.

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New Post 09-03-2011 01:47 AM
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SINTORMAN
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If you still want some more highs with tweets check out partsexpress.com they have great products and most of the reviews are for real.

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New Post 09-03-2011 01:49 AM
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asterno
New Member

 

The deeper I get into this, the deeper in poo I get. How important is a CEA rating?

found MBQ ref 800 that seems to be good on paper and is just shy (50W) of my max combined RMS for a good price. is one of few in the power range CEA approved. good amp?

now to wiring. 4 g kit, in line fuse. Have an f350 with 2 batteries already. Is that good enough wire for this amp/sub setup and what amp should the in line fuse be. Does it matter which AGU, ANL, MAXI fuse it is?

sorry for all the questions, this would be easier if we had a quality professional installer locally.

my budget for the amp is around $200. the above mbq is $140. It is A/B not D, important or no?

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New Post 09-03-2011 02:01 AM
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