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I have an interesting discovery which has invoked an intriguing venture. This new discussion slash thread is mostly for those that have an understanding for running active crossovers at the headunit. any one can chime in but no trolling understood, I have the Alpine 9887 model which has 3way active and a 7 band eq. With the 3way it has low pass, band pass, and high pass. the rest of you knowhows can fill in the rest of the info your selves,
this is where the cool discovery is, i have discovered that I can switch from left and right channels being tuned equally or i can make each left and right channel be tuneable separately meaning that i can tune the highpass crossover point differently for the left side than the right and I can do this with each of the 3way to potentially make it a 6channelly 3way system.
at first it does not really sound that cool however if you can invision for me for a second that now i can go from the low pass to a lower pass with higher low pass, lower band pass, higher bandpass, lower high pass and higher highpass. if i have the correct 2 channel sub amp i could have 6 total channels, i would loose my ability to time align because each channel would require 2 drivers per channel on either side of the vehicle, this setup may or may not really be that effective, but hear me out a little more
if i only run one sub to the low pass and align both left and right equally say 30-70hz because of subsonic filter so i start with one low pass channel, then i go with a lower bandpass to some 6.5"s, say 80 or 90-200hz which will run 2 drivers off of one channel at either 2 or 8ohms and that will run either left side band pass or right
next will have higher band pass running off of the other side of the band pass either left or right side, starting at 200-5khz to some 5.25" drivers running either 2ohms or 8ohms, then the left or right side of the highpass will be say 5k-20khz to 2 solid 1" tweeters at most likely 8ohms, then lastly use the last side highpass to run some super tweeters playing oh i dont know say 10k or 12k-20khz maybe 8ohms. now in my head i would have a better system in theory cause the sound is better divided up and each driver will preform less stressed savy...
my 4 channel amp may not handle each channel having a slightly different load and it may burn up prematurely.
i have come up with 3 sets of component mids, and this newly discovered tuning capability and I am hoping for some advice and imput about the entire concept...
I know some will say that running a lot of different mids will muddy up the sound but i just cant help but want to try to hook up all of that in my truck and let it scream, do you guys think that my amp will suffer by having different ohm loads per channel? if you were able to keep up with my converstation sweet if you refuse to get involved i understand. thanks guys in advance for any thoughts and input you may have about all of this.................................
you are correct sir, i would loose time allignment abilities, cause i would be running mono.
could my 4 channel amp safely do 8ohms on one of the four channels then 2ohms on another and then maybe 4ohms on another? it sounds wrong but then maybe it will never be effected???
Larry its good to see you still going strong, how is the truck and brother?
quote:
Originally posted on 03-25-2012 by GILLETTE
you are correct sir, i would loose time allignment abilities, cause i would be running mono.
could my 4 channel amp safely do 8ohms on one of the four channels then 2ohms on another and then maybe 4ohms on another? it sounds wrong but then maybe it will never be effected???
Larry its good to see you still going strong, how is the truck and brother?
I think the amp would be fine. each channel doesn't care what the other is doing as long as you don't go to a lower impedance than the amp was designed to do. You could try doing this but I would bet you won't like the outcome.
I'm good G. Still tuning and tuning. It never ends. I bought an ESX 275.2 from my son for my sub. Rated 825 watts now but more like a real world 1000.It's kinda nuts now. I have crossed the electrical threshold of my Explorer though. I bought a deep cycle battery and I still have headlights dimming pretty bad. HMMM....I guess I should expect it. I probobly have about 1600 a/b watts going now total. I think a big 3 is needed.
Gillette, I am glad to see you're still thinking. Tell ya the truth, I had never considered the concept...
The opposition to the idea may stem from the format in which audio is recorded... Audio Control makes electronics which can properly provide settings as such though...
For a while there, home audio receivers were designed to simulate stereo with a configuration of only allowing low pass to play through either the L or R channel. This was used for symmetrically located speakers that cancelled out lower frequencies via phase. This practice became less common over time because of the 5.1 Dolby concepts of mono low pass.
Maximum efficiency @ resonant frequency!
quote:
Originally posted on 03-25-2012 by larrypeters86
I think the amp would be fine. each channel doesn't care what the other is doing as long as you don't go to a lower impedance than the amp was designed to do. You could try doing this but I would bet you won't like the outcome.
I'm good G. Still tuning and tuning. It never ends. I bought an ESX 275.2 from my son for my sub. Rated 825 watts now but more like a real world 1000.It's kinda nuts now. I have crossed the electrical threshold of my Explorer though. I bought a deep cycle battery and I still have headlights dimming pretty bad. HMMM....I guess I should expect it. I probobly have about 1600 a/b watts going now total. I think a big 3 is needed.
(crowd cheers) Welcome to the other side of the threshold.....
Of course you'd still dim with a DC batt. Matter of fact, if you disconnected the batt after starting the vehicle, you'd have less dim. Not only does it present a load when recharging, it decreases the value of voltage at a resting point.....
Zed make anything class D?
this is semisortof what i am thinking about doing, if anything i may only separate the band pass into lower band pass and higher band pass to improve my sound but its all in the brainstorming process now.
I am getting tired of swapping out my monster box for my compact box in my truck and im thinking of trying to just optimize the space i have concealable and do maybe 2 10"s or something. I love my 18" sub but I need to haul my family around and Its Just not working out.
I also need to pull one of my batteries out and see if I have more power to work with that way...
Larry, sounds good bout that amp mister, isn't that like the most classic, rarest amp around!!!! anyway its always a pleasure to hear from you.
Lan, also good to hear from you your witty little tidbits are generally a treat everytime.....
If your head unit's disc player malfunctioned and could only play/repeat the same 10 second bar of "sounds of the sea", thus limiting you to only hear the same wave roll into the shore, forever. THEN, I'd think, well it couldn't get any worse than that... Ya, go ahead with your idea.
Other than that, I'd advise to think twice about this.. or 3 times if needed.(no one is counting)
The only help I can offer would be a Pioneer GM-222 you can have if the shipping isn't too costly.
I'd recommend limiting 1 driver/chanel and if need be, going back to active XO's if you want more speakers.
Initially I had 2 sets of component mids that I ordered for my father last year to put in his semi. He paid $100.00 for both sets. My father decided that he was going to go another route and freely gave me the speaker sets a few days ago. I was firstly going to try to integrate those components into my existing system knowing that it would be far from perfect. That is what initiated this thread. I however happened to sell the speakers for exactly $100.00 to some distant friends the other day. So, there I was, with this idea, and a hundred bucks burning a hole in my pocket.
I got on my new favorite site/company (PartsExpress.com) and did some shopping. I did some researching and afro-engineering(pun intended) until I came up with this list of strategically chosen transducers in an attempt to optimize my newly found potentially 5way active-mono setup.
all of the drivers are 8ohms so each will have an end result of 4ohms per channel on the amp (not considering amp rise or anything, just generalized specs). I ordered 2 sets of the Focal 6.5" drives because they were cheap and I am considering running 2 in each door if I can manage it. That configuration will show a base of 2ohms, not optimum I admit but still in the amps stability range.
one or two sets of 6.5" mid bass drivers ---- 80-500hz
10"/18" subwoofer ---- 30-80hz
I could potentially work out the overlapping of the tweeters with attenuation-ing and EQ adjusting, well some I seem to think. Tell me that would not be bitching guys tell me....
i paid $120.00 for these mids total, im excited to say the least. I plan to fiber glass the sail panels up after strategically locating the best possible location for each that I can. I have a slightly new friend with some said decent glassing skills. I am truly interested in my new venture. I cant imagine it becoming a flop but Ill be sure to let you know how it turns out.........................
I'd never intentionally say something mean to you. In all due respect, stereo separation is music. Since I added a DSP, its evident more than ever. User preferences have some guidelines that cannot be bent or broken. Stereo, may be the #1 aspect considered a requirement. AND YOU KNOW THIS MAAAAAAN! All the best!
Is it just me or does Lan seem to speak a version of english that is rather hard to understand?
I must not realize exactly what will happen to my sounds when I switch from stereo to mono. I imagine because Im currently running stereo and have always done so I dont really know how mono will come across.
I do know that during music that has left to right sweeps or intros starting one one side or the other that I will get a funny response out of the makeshift mono setup.
I guess its just to far into the process now for me to back out my heart is set on trying. I may not fiberglass up my truck until I have determined that I will really like what happens to my system when I make this switch. I should listen to the experienced guys and stick to stereo, something tells me that I will end up hearing that annoying i told you so in the end but. i cant just bail out now with my idea i feel i must at least see it through and then make my final decision as to weather or not it is a flop idea............
I am truly blinded by the unique array of drivers I have purchased and the idea of successfully distributing the sound to each of these drivers in a very selective way has me quite intrigued.
Lmfao....lan...ur too much. Gillette...the ring radiator would do a much better job from 5k and up by itself. Look at the response graph for both. That tweet is almost identical to what i have and they sound fantastic. My son is running a tb wideband very similar to the one you posted. He bought the bamboo cone version. Amazing sq. Ur traveling doan a 4 way active path. It can yeild fantastic results however....how are you going to cross over the tb?