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Message Forums Car Stereo Message Forums > Amplifiers > old Concord CA50-2 amplifier...
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oldschool8604
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 old Concord CA50-2 amplifier...

Hey has anyone heard of this brand of amps? I got it from my grandpa, and was wondering if anyone had any info on it. It's really hard to find stuff on the internet about it... Oh these are the specs, that i know so far...haha -100w RMS -digital interface -high and low level inputs -4 channels I've heard by bits and pieces that 100w rms turns out something around 250w max power? is that true or no? When i hook it up, i just want to put one subwoofer on it, so does this mean all the power will go to that one sub? Sorry for asking so many questions...im new here...and dont know too much about amps and stuff... Thanks! Oldschool

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New Post 06-24-2004 06:12 PM
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TroyO
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 RE: old Concord CA50-2 amplifier...

quote:
Originally posted on 06-24-2004 by oldschool8604
Hey has anyone heard of this brand of amps? I got it from my grandpa, and was wondering if anyone had any info on it. It's really hard to find stuff on the internet about it... Oh these are the specs, that i know so far...haha -100w RMS -digital interface -high and low level inputs -4 channels I've heard by bits and pieces that 100w rms turns out something around 250w max power? is that true or no? When i hook it up, i just want to put one subwoofer on it, so does this mean all the power will go to that one sub? Sorry for asking so many questions...im new here...and dont know too much about amps and stuff... Thanks! Oldschool

Been a while since I seen that name... This was decent stuff in it's day. Not quite the level of Rockford Fosgate or PPI, but definately not junk either. I'd be surprised if you find anything on the internet about it, as I am not sure if Concorde is in business any longer. This might not be the best choice for powering a sub though, it may be a little small. Would hate to see you blow up a sub because you didn't have enough power (much worse than too much, if you want I can explain). Lets start with the questions. First, 100W RMS does not mean 250W peak. Technically the conversion from RMS to peak will be approximately RMS X 1.414, so about 140W peak. The amp can probably deliver more than that on quick bursts, but the number you should use is the RMS value. That is where you will see the biggest impact, and where the amp will spend most of it's time. Second, does the amp state 100W per channel? From the model number I seem to remember this as a 50W per channel amplifier... I also don't remember if this amp can be "bridged" to combine two channels into one. Does the amp all of the markings on it? Sometimes you can tell from that. If the amp cannot be bridged, it will only provide the power that is available for each channel. If it can be, it will effectively double the power per channel, but you can only do this will two channels. The other two will be useless. I hope that helps. I worked on a couple of these about 10 years ago while I was working as a repair tech for a car audio shop.

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New Post 06-30-2004 02:12 AM
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oldschool8604
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hey thanks for the info Well, the only markings on the amp are the ones i stated before...and thats it...i dont know if it can be bridged...and how you would bridge it. Oh well, i'll just look for a used amp...and sub... ps, can you explain the not enough power thing? i thought too much power would screw up the amp, let alone too little...haha

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New Post 07-01-2004 01:45 PM
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TroyO
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Let's do this. Shoot me an email at sjazzlover@yahoo.com, and I will answer the too little power question. I need to use a couple of diagrams for the explanation to make sense, and there are no provisions for attaching them to this forum. It's not difficult to understand, just needs some pictures to go along with the words. If any of the moderators read this, you guys need to provide a way to attach JPGs or BMPs to the posts, just limit the size. Also, shoot me some pictures of the amp's top and ends and maybe we can come up with the best way to utilize this amp. I am into the old school stuff and am currently building my dream system from about 10-12 years ago. Todays amps just don't measure up. Too may manufactures have gone to China due to the labor costs, and the quality has suffered for it. Not to mention the manufactures have had to resort to twisting the numbers around just to compete with other manufactures that out right lie about their power capabilities.

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New Post 07-01-2004 08:58 PM
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GuySmily
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I have a very similar story to yours. -=- We just finished moving, and my dad found his old amps and subs, and gave them to me. The amps are two Concord CA20-2's (40 watts rms) and a CA50-2 (same as yours). One of the CA20-2's are supposedly broken. -=- The subs I have are two Bazookas, model SAS-T82. "Max suggested amp power" is 150 Watts/Channel it says. Both of those are supposedly blown out also. -=- I'm driving a 1986 Toyota Pickup (http://www.guysmily.com/images/cars/truck1/front.jpg), and I'm hoping to find some cheap speakers and a head unit, use the good amps, and fix the subs. -=- I guess my first concern is the car battery.. The truck is nearly 20 years old. The battery has never spontaneously died (I did leave the lights on once, and it died that way), but will it handle a nice stereo system? -=- On that note, are there any other car components that need to be changed? I've heard stuff about the alternator, but I don't really know my cars too well... -=- According to the Crutchfield Advisor webpage, the kind of speakers I want are "4T", and it listed http://www.crutchfield.com/S-4xeTcp5gCWD/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?s=0&c=10&g=52400&I=109P452&o=p&a=1&cc=01&avf=Y&search= as a speaker I could use. These would go into the stock speaker places, I assume. -=- I read at the Bazooka forums that I need to get actual bazooka/sas speakers to replace the ones in my tubes right now. Do they typically cost a lot, and is it true that I really should use their speakers? -=- I guess I'm just looking for advice on what I should do, and how to get started, because I'm pretty clueless on all of this. I do have my dad for help, but I want to try and do as much as I can by myself. -=- Ouch, the forum takes away all the editing.. I'll put dashes between my paragraphs. Wierd how it dated my post for a few days ago, too...

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New Post 07-03-2004 12:39 AM
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oldschool8604
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hey thanks TroyO...im going to send u an email in a bit, asking u the question ... cya

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New Post 07-04-2004 02:11 PM
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TroyO
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GuySmily, lets see if I can answer your questions. I'll start with the two broken CA20s. If you know someone that can repair amplifiers, and knows where to get replacement parts, they would be worth fixing. I wouldn't want to spend more than $30 to $40 each to get them fixed. If you don't know anyone, shoot me an email at the address listed in the thread and we might be able to work something out. Second, the Bazookas. If they are blown, stick them in the trash. They are not going to be worth getting replacement speakers or re-coned (if you can even find someone to do that anymore). Finding cheap speakers and amps is easy on Ebay. Just be willing to hold out for what you want, and the price you want to pay. Finally the questions about the trucks electrical systems. For what you are talking about at this time, you should have no problem with the factory battery, and alternator. You shouldn't need to be worried about upgrades to the electrical system untill you begin to get near 1000W RMS power. Be sure that if you are going to install the equipment, that you talk with someone who knows what they are doing, and can give you some guidance. If you plan on having someone else do the install, try to work with a local independant car audio specialist or at the very least Car Toys, Best Buy, Circuit City and the like. The MECP certifications do provide some peace of mind, so that may be something you want to look at. Ask the kind of questions to them that you did here. If they give you the run around or don't seem to have the answers, go somewhere else. Let me know how things turn out, and what you decide to go with. Good luck.

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New Post 07-08-2004 12:25 AM
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